The Spur’s secret society of beef

By on October 1, 2014
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If there’s a beef special, order it. The Spur does beef better than most restaurants in town. Photo by Geraldine Mishev.

Jackson Hole, Wyoming – My mouth was watering over my boyfriend’s beef.

Had Derek and myself not had company, I would have jumped on it. I certainly have never won any awards for good manners, and I’ve certainly been inadvertently inappropriate on more than one occasion. But I knew it would be rude just to get in there and start mawing on his juicy, tender meat with someone else looking on.

So I instead controlled myself and concentrated on my own beef, a butcher steak of Snake River Farms American Kobe served atop fingerling potatoes and with Peruvian chilis, tomatoes, onion, and cilantro ($28.) At The Spur these days, chef Kevin Humphreys and the rest of his kitchen staff know what they’re doing with beef.

My steak, the “Saltado,” was wonderfully cooked and, even though I marveled at the large number of fingerling potatoes when the entrée arrived, I ate almost all of those too.

However, Derek’s steak, which was the night’s special, was divine. And after he enjoyed several bites, I didn’t feel so shy about stealing a piece. Or two. Also served with fingerling potatoes, but without onions and chilis, the steak special relied on the meat for the majority of its taste, which indeed was very complex. Both the steak and the potatoes beneath were sauced only with the meat’s own juices.

Of course meat this fine starts with great cows and fine butchering, but I’m going to credit the kitchen for the tenderness. This steak required no knife like my Saltado did.

I’m a little sad the Saltado had to go face-to-face with the au jus special. My yearning for Derek’s dinner is in no way meant to disparage my dinner. The Saltado is an extremely fine steak and sauce pairing, but Derek’s was just so freakishly divine. Does The Spur have a line to some herd of hormone- and antibiotic- free cattle tended to by Tinkerbell and fed grass fertilized by unicorn shit?

I was in such a reverie from the steaks that dessert almost slipped my mind, until I heard about the chocolate peanut butter bread pudding ($8). I didn’t care how stuffed I was, I was going to find room for that.

The Spur does not go to the delightful excesses that Rendezvous Bistro does for its bread pudding (using croissants as the bread). Still, it was every bit as good as I anticipated. I did not envy Derek’s dessert, a chocolate pudding with a healthy helping of chocolate crumbs on top ($8), though he thought it was one of the best desserts he has had recently. As big of a sweet tooth as I have, I can easily overload on chocolate and Derek’s dessert was a chocolate overload.

Since its massive remodel, The Spur has been my go-to après ski establishment. But until a couple of weeks ago, I hadn’t thought of it for summer or fall and had never looked at the full dinner menu as I rarely made it past the Devils on Horseback ($4) or heaping plates of nachos. Now I wonder how many other divine specials I’ve missed. Don’t make the same mistake. Get out there now.

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The Spur’s bacon-wrapped dates are the best in the valley, and also a bargain at $4 for three.

The Spur, inside Teton Mountain Lodge in Teton Village, reservations recommended, 732-6932; www.tetonlodge.com/spur-dining.

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